Vertical Tasting of Escudo Rojo's Baronesa P. Shows Rothschild's 20-Year Bet in Chile Paying Off
Wine Club Miami tastes four vintages of the flagship Bordeaux blend in New York City, honoring the late Baronesa Philippine de Rothschild
On March 13th, 2024, Wine Club Miami co-president Shawn Zylberberg joined an exclusive tasting of Chilean winery Escudo Rojo’s flagship Bordeaux blend, Baronesa P. The presentation took place at Delmonico’s NYC, widely regarded as New York’s ‘first fine dining restaurant’ (menus on the wall dating to the early 1800s, when the restaurant was founded, are proof).
The winery was founded by Baronesa Philippine de Rothschild in 1999, and is owned by the family company, Baron Philippe de Rothschild. Baronesa P. is the Bordeaux blend that honors her memory and the richness of Chile’s terroirs (soils), which ultimately convinced her to make her own wine in the heart of Maipo Valley: Escudo Rojo (it is a term that is translated to ‘Rote Schild’ in German, meaning red shield, an ode to the family name).
Although the winery was founded in 1999, the first vintage of Baronesa P. was 2018. It took nearly two decades to find the right wine to match Baronesa’s elegant standard, but her passing in 2014 also convinced her son and CEO of the family company, Baron Philippe Sereys de Rothschild, to create a wine in her honor.
“Even more than a tribute, this wine is a heritage, born of the encounter of Chilean terroirs, our family company’s know-how and a charismatic personality,” writes Baron Philippe Sereys. “If I had to describe Baronesa P. in three terms, they would be exacting standards, elegance and flamboyance.”
Winemaker Gonzalo Castro has been tasked with producing Baronesa P., a monumental challenge for any producer! “When Baron Philippe Sereys told me I had to create a wine that showed Baronesa Philippine’s elegance, finesse and flamboyance, I was scared!” Gonzalo laughed. Philippe Sereys is a kind, surprisingly witty man, and followed this with a joke that his mother’s ‘short temper’ did not make it into the glass.
The wines showed strength and integrity, and are a testament to the quality of Cabernet-driven wines in Chile (all are in the $70.00 range):
Baronesa P. 2018
76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Carmenere, 5.5% Petit Verdot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 4.5% Syrah
The 2018 was already showing hints of age in color and aromas, and the wine showed healthy Cabernet red fruit flavors which were held together nicely. Integration is a common theme throughout the wines. The vintage was exceptional and balanced.
Baronesa P. 2019
78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Carmenere, 6% Petit Verdot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 5% Syrah
This wine had a strong tannic pull to it and slight herbaciousness. It was not as rich in flavor as the others. I prefer the other vintages. The season was hot and dry, and the grapes ripened very quickly posing a challenge to the team.
Baronesa P. 2020
81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc, 5% Syrah, 5% Petit Verdot, 4% Carmenere
The 2020 was the most Bordeaux-like and a clear favorite among attendees. The season was warm and dry, and this wine has the highest amount of French oak at 18 months! It’s an ageworthy beast that is an easy buy for bold Cabernet lovers. A beautiful wine.
Baronesa P. 2021
81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Carmenere, 5% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Franc, 3% Syrah
For those who prefer freshness, 2021 is your vintage. It is blossoming with energy and young fruit flavors that are linear and pure. The cooler seasonal temperatures made it ideal to highlight elegance and a rawness to the blend.
Winemaker Gonzalo Castro breaking down his method for each wine (Katy Andrascik)
Has Bordeaux found a second home in Chile? There is no doubt that a strong French influence is present here, and has been for decades. From Maipo Valley to Aconcagua Valley (home of the legendary Seña winery) to Puente Alto, there are sub-regions that can grow Bordeaux varieties very, very well. And Chilean winemakers such as Gonzalo or Francisco Baettig, have proven to be some of the world’s best wine blenders, a notoriously difficult job to perfect. Only time will tell how these vintages perform, but for now they show a strong connection to Bordeaux structure in the glass with a soft and smooth Chilean identity…let’s see if they can hold the same life expectancy as a fine Mouton!
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